Green, or pyroracemic peel consists in skin cover exfoliation with a pyroracemic (pyruvic, or keto-acetic) acid solution. Exfoliation with pyroracemic acid can be superficial or superficial-medium.
Indications for use of pyruvic exfoliation comprise:
- dark circles under eyes;
- seborrheic dermatitis;
- comedo and papulopustular acne;
- fading skin;
- signs of photo aging;
- hyper pigmentation;
- skin tolerant to other acids;
- problem-prone mature skin;
- young atonic skin.
According to researchers, green peel is most effective when patients follow a definite course of procedures:
- to treat hyper pigmentation, peel is performed once in 11-14 days in combination with procedures of depigmentation;
- to treat acne and seborrheic dermatitis, skin is exfoliated once in 8-14 days;
- to treat any age-related changes, peel is performed once in two weeks.
An active course means having 10 procedures annually. For supporting therapy, one monthly procedure is sufficient.
Contraindications for use of green peel are connected with the following states:
- significant damage of skin cover in the exfoliation area (burns, as well as acute inflammatory processes);
- oncology diseases;
- herpes in its stage of aggravation;
- heat caused by any reason;
- diabetes mellitus;
- necessity of isotretinoin or retinoids intake within 6 months before peel;
- serious clinical signs of acne vulgaris;
- intensive suntan under sun or in a sunroom within a month before peel;
- bronchial asthma and bronchial spasm.
Advantages and Drawbacks in Comparison with Other Peels
Advantages of green peel comprise the following of its properties:
- ensures exfoliation without drying epidermis because when entering skin, pyroracemic acid is transformed into lactic acid which creates a moisture-binding film;
- pyroracemic acid penetrates epidermis significantly deeper than, for instance, glycolic acid, and its anti-inflammatory effect is substantially stronger;
- the effectiveness of keto-acetic acid peel is comparable to that of TCA exfoliation, but, unlike TCA, green peel is practically painless;
- is known for excellent tolerance;
- ensures deep penetration into hair follicles and effective prevention of ingrown hairs;
- normalizes secretion of oil glands;
- is effective in removing hyper pigmentation;
- is more effective than other chemical peels in stimulating the synthesis of collagen, glycoproteins, as well as elastin;
- is suitable for any skin type and any age category;
- ensures strong keratolytic and whitening effect.
Drawbacks of green peel include:
- an unpleasant acrid smell which presents difficulties in treating patients with bronchial asthma;
- in case of hyper pigmentation green peel procedures are not performed within periods of extensive exposure to sunrays.
Features of the Active Component
- Pyroracemic acid (acidum pyroracemicum), alpha-ketopropionic acid, or pyruvate is an organic alpha-keto acid with properties of carboxylic acids and ketones. It is the end product of glycolysis.
- Pyroracemic acid is produced from tartaric and lactic acids. It should be noted that pyruvic acid is contained in all biological tissues of the organism. Its great biochemical value is determined by its participation in various biochemical processes. Pyroracemic acid is classed among by-products of amino acid biosynthesis, processes of alcoholic and lactic fermentation. Being a product of carbohydrate disintegration, pyruvic acid plays a major role in metabolism.
- Its molecule is notable for its minuscule size. Possessing high lipophily, this acid demonstrates exceptional penetrating capability: it penetrates skin deeper than glycolic acid, almost like trichloracetic acid, and allows controlling its penetration depth.
- In the process of application onto skin cover, pyruvic acid is hydrolyzed and converted into lactic acid which ensures effective moisturizing of epidermis and is natural for its horny layer.
- Pyroracemic acid has an unpleasant acrid smell. It is utilized completely, without toxigenesis.
Pyroracemic acid does not cause allergy because it is found in cells of the organism.
Deep penetration of the solution into epidermis ensures the strong effect of the peel. In particular, pyruvic acid ensures:
- decrease in interaction of epidermal keratinized cells;
- prevention of horny layer enhancement;
- powerful antiseptic, sebostatic, comedolytic, bacteriostatic, restructuring, de-pigmenting, exfoliating effect;
- actively stimulated synthesis of collagen, dermal glycoproteins, as well as elastin;
- intensive exfoliation of epidermis cells without associated irritation and skin cover dryness due to deep moisturizing effect of pyruvic acid;
- intensive smoothing of the horny layer which ensures perfecting skin relief and improving complexion;
- normalizing secretion of oil glands;
- skin lightening;
- powerful lifting effect.
Correct pre-peel treatment always includes a professional examination of the patient by a cosmetician. At that, specialists should use Fitzpatrick scale of skin types, as well as Glogau classification of photo aging.
Patients with oily seborrhea need a more prolonged course of pre-peel treatment because increased oil secretion complicates significantly the process of peel solution penetration.
Special care when having peels and pre-peel treatment is recommended for patients with inflammatory elements on skin cover because these may cause deeper penetration of peel solution and burns on skin.
Before peel, it is compulsory to determine whether the patient is prone to herpetic reactions. If yes, exfoliation is strictly not recommended since peeling may cause aggravation of the disease.
Patients who underwent surgery can have their skin exfoliated 6 months after operations or later. In other cases, after-peel rehabilitation will get slower.
Patients with psoriasis are prone to serious aggravation after peel, so they should abstain from having green peels.
Pre-peel treatment is a compulsory process because in other cases, hyperkeratosis impedes penetration of exfoliating solution and decreases the effect of the procedure.
To achieve a quality result of exfoliation, it is recommended to organize effective pre-peel treatment with photoprotective, cleansing and glycol containing solutions at least within 2 weeks. This will ensure preparing of skin cover and creating of even horny layer to prevent patchy penetration of pyroracemic acid during the procedure.
Pre-peel treatment comprises quality cleansing of skin cover and subsequent application of glycolic acid solutions. In daytime, sunscreens should be used.
Stages of Green Peel:
The procedure is performed in a well-aired room.
Correct pyroracemic exfoliation presumes sequential actions connected with:
- cleansing skin cover with hydrophilic oil;
- removing hydrophilic oil with a soft cloth and warm water;
- toning the exfoliation area with azulene lotion. Skin cover of face, neck and décolleté is lightly massaged with tonic;
- drying skin after toning;
- applying peel solution. Depending on the tasks at hand, cosmetician may choose concentration of pyroracemic acid from 25% to 50%, pH from 1.0 to 2.0 and time of exposure from 5 to 15 minutes. It is carefully and quickly applied with a cotton pad in the following sequence: forehead, chin, cheeks, perioral area, nose, orbital area. The specialist should ensure careful observation of the patient's skin cover because when performing green peel, the time of exposure is determined strictly individually: the peel solution is neutralized at the first signs of erythema;
- applying neutralizing solution directly onto peel in reverse sequence: orbital area, nose, perioral area, cheeks, chin, forehead;
- removing peel and neutralizing solution with a soft cloth and a large quantity of cold water;
- careful drying of skin;
- toning skin with azulene lotion;
- applying moisturizing cream;
- applying photoprotective cream.
Stages of Skin Post-Peel Treatment
A maximal effect of green peel is achieved if post-peel treatment is organized correctly. It means using sunscreens and moisturizers minimum within a week after the last peeling procedure.
Skin moisturizing during the rehabilitation period promotes prevention of skin cover drying and accelerates the epithelization process. For these purposes, it is recommended to use moisturizing gels with hyaluronic acid.
Approximately within a month after the last procedure of green peel course, it is not recommended to get a tan either in sunrooms or in the sun. In the morning, it is preferable to use a quality sunscreen with photo filters (minimal sun protection factor SPF 30).
Complications which May Appear after Green Peel
Unlike glycolic and TCA exfoliation which may cause strong after-peel responses, green peel is known for its particular mildness and has excellent tolerance. This is why complications during peel or within the period of after-peel rehabilitation are extremely rare. Practically in 5-6 days after peel the patient can plan any festive events.
Usual post-peel responses comprise several states remaining for 3-4 days:
- light hyperemia;
- pastosity and puffiness;
- flaking of skin cover.
Flaking in the exfoliation areas is characteristic of green peel. To ensure quick and successful rehabilitation, skin flakes should be necessarily preserved. It is unsafe to remove them forcibly.
Effect of Green Peel
The visual result of pyroracemic exfoliation consists in:
- smoothing wrinkles;
- evening the relief of skin cover;
- significant improving of complexion due to increase in hemodynamics;
- dispersion of old congestive spots;
- strong lifting effect due to stimulated synthesis of collagen, dermal glycoproteins, as well as elastin;
- normalizing secretion of sebaceous glands;
- narrowing pores;
- decreasing hyper pigmentation;
- skin cover whitening;
- acquiring tender and attractive skin;
- powerful anti-inflammatory effect;
- increasing regeneration of damaged tissues;
- acceleration of metabolic processes;
- a prominent keratolytic, antiseptic, sebostatic, comedolytic, bacteriostatic, restructuring, de-pigmenting, exfoliating effect;
- forming of a film which is able to protect skin cover from dehydration during a long period of time;
- active remodeling of skin.
Green Peel. Photo before and after procedure
The green peel can cost anywhere from about $250 (for a mini green pee), or about $500 for the full green peel.