Wine peel is a cosmetological procedure which consists in skin treatment with a special high-potent solution. The solution comprises strong acids, an acetic complex and vegetable-based components. The procedure belongs to a group of superficial and mild medium-depth peels. Its excellent results are shown in stimulated exfoliation and renewed epidermis, as well as in activated removal of damaged collagen and elastin fibers and new fibers formation.
Indications and Contraindications
Application of wine peel promotes intensification of exfoliating and whitening effects. Thus, it will prove helpful in lightening and toning skin of any type, especially with the signs of photo aging after sunbathing or visiting a sunroom. Moreover, active components of wine peel possess an antioxidant effect: they actively bind the harmful molecules of free radicals and therefore prevent fast natural skin aging. Wine peel is also recommended as a stage of skin preparation for mechanical cleansing, sunbathing and body wraps (toning, anti-cellulite and anti-aging).
Indications for Use of Wine Peel:
1. Age-related skin changes;
2. Signs of photo aging;
3. Oily, problem-prone skin;
4. Hyper pigmentation;
5. Hyperkeratosis (excessive thickening of the horny layer in epidermis).
Contraindications for Use of Wine Peel Comprise:
- Any peel component intolerance;
- Aggravation of infectious and inflammatory diseases;
- Dermatitis, as well as parasitic and fungous skin diseases;
- Periods of pregnancy and breast-feeding;
- Thin skin cover with pronounced rosacea;
- Open injuries (wounds, abrasions) on skin;
- Shaving, depilation and visiting sunroom within the last 2-3 days;
- New growths;
- Herpes in its aggravation stage;
- Low blood coagulability.
Advantages of Wine Peel
Wine peel demonstrates excellent results on oily skin, promotes its deep cleansing and provides a sense of velvetiness and freshness.
On the whole, this procedure causes dissipation of intercellular junctions in the horny layer of epidermis which leads to exfoliation of dead cells. In addition, intensive rejuvenation is observed within several days after the peel.
Other positive effects include activated synthesis of collagen and prevention of excessive inflammation, hyper pigmentation and damaging of skin stem cells.
Advantages of wine peel also comprise the pleasant aroma of the solution which helps to relax and enjoy the procedure.
It is possible to apply the peel on various body parts.
Drawbacks of Wine Peel
Application of wine peel is always accompanied by tingling, prickling or stinging. These sensations are normal skin responses and subside gradually.
Even with pronounced hyperkeratosis, hyperemia is observed almost always. These negative effects subside after repeated procedures.
Properties of the Active Component
Tartaric acid which belongs to a group of fruit acids is the principal active component of wine peel. It provides mild and careful skin cleansing from cellular debris. This reduces the possibility of skin damage during the procedure. Tartaric acid also helps in opening and cleansing pores, nourishing skin with useful substances through deeper penetration. It has an antioxidant and moisturizing effect.
Tartaric acid, racemic, paratartaric, dihydroxy-succinic acid is a hydroxy-dibasic acid. There also exists its variation in the form of racemic tartaric acid (a mixture of tartaric acid stereoisomeric forms). In nature, it is found in potatoes, cucumbers, Iceland moss, black pepper, sour juice of many fruits.
To produce tartaric acid, a hardly soluble acidic potassium salt (tartar) is isolated from grape juice through fermentation. Then, it is subjected to heating and processing with mineral acids to achieve the desired result.
Tartaric acid has a pleasant lemony smell, is freely soluble in water and alcohol.
The wine peel composition often comprises extracts of red wine and grape-stones, polyphenols, antioxidants and tannin, as well as vitamin E. The latter accelerates the process of cell renewal and normalizes the lipidic and moisture balance of skin.
Additive agents in the wine peel composition include alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids (glycolic, mandelic, lactic, salicylic), polyhydroxy acids (lactobionic, gluconic), azelaic acid and natural vinegars (peach, apple, apricot). Besides, its composition comprises such renewal stimulators as glutamic, nicotinic and hyaluronic acids, pomegranate oil and extracts of dandelion, nettle and common wormwood, as well as jojoba oil, raisin-seed oil and honey.
Glycolic acid has an anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effect. It stimulates the synthesis of fibroblasts and collagen.
Lactic acid has a strong moisturizing effect, renovates the protective skin barrier, increases the synthesis of collagen.
Mandelic acid has a bacteriostatic, anti-inflammatory, whitening, antioxidant and comedolytic effect.
Azelaic acid is known for its antimicrobic, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory comedolytic effect. It restrains the excessive growth of melanocytes and the proliferation of keratinocytes.
Lactobionic acid has a moisturizing, antioxidant, anti-aging effect.
Gluconic acid is known for its antioxidant and moisturizing effect. It stimulates the growth of new cells and promotes skin rejuvenation.
Fruit vinegars (apple, peach, apricot) contain acetic and natural acids: apple, lactic, citric acids, as well as enzymes, pectin, tannins, vitamins, amino acids. Moreover, acids act synergistically, helping each other to penetrate deeper into the skin.
Pre-peel treatment means applying low-concentration fruit acids one or two weeks before the procedure.
Stages of Wine Peel
Preparation for wine peel starts with skin cleansing from dust and sebum with the help of hydrophilic jellies, facial wash or cleanser. Then, skin is treated with a de-oiling tonic.
After that, exfoliation is performed with the help of a scrub cleanser (preferably containing papain) or with a natural peel (it is advisable to pay special attention to the T-zone). Its effect consists in removing the layer of debris (dead cells), which provides better penetration of useful substances into skin cover at the next stages of the procedure. Besides, exfoliation combines the effects of enzyme and mechanical peels, ensures active renewal of skin cells, increases the skin firmness and provides even complexion.
And then, alpha-gel lotion is applied on skin up to its complete absorption. Specialists also use alcohol-free tonic for dry or normal skin which provides an excellent soothing and moisturizing effect. Without rinsing it off, cosmeticians apply peel solution.
The first procedure of wine peel consists in applying a thin layer of solution with a brush or a cotton bud for 1-3 minutes, then cleansing the skin with warm water and an alkaline neutralizer. Thus, absence of wine peel side effects is checked and confirmed.
The following procedures also consist in applying a thin layer of solution with a brush, but now it is left on skin for 10 minutes. Then, the second layer of solution is applied and left for 5-10 minutes. After that, skin is cleansed with warm water and neutralizer.
Then, a lifting mask is applied on skin. It provides a firming and anti-aging effect. The mask is left on skin for up to 10 minutes (the duration depends on the skin type, number of problem-prone zones and nature of problems). It is also preferable to apply a lifting eye cream mask to ensure removal of minor wrinkles and protection from premature aging of the thin skin under eyes.
In conclusion, skin is treated with a light cream without oils and fats which provides the skin with the necessary amount of oxygen and moisture, soothes it and protects it from negative external influences: tobacco smoke, conditioned air, etc.
The procedure frequency is determined depending on the skin response to the first peel. Light flaking in 3-4 days is considered a normal response. In this case, a peel course comprises 6-8 procedures with intervals of 7-12 days. If the skin is oily and prone to clogging of pores, inflammations and rashes, the periodicity of procedures may be reduced to 4 days. In the case of treating dry skin, intervals can be prolonged for up to 15 days.
To ensure the positive effect of wine peel, it is recommended to repeat the procedure 1-2 times monthly after completing the course.
Stages of Skin After-Peel Treatment
In after-peel treatment, skin is protected from the negative impact of ultraviolet with the help of a sunscreen emulsion with SPF 30 or higher.
It is also recommended to use moisturizing and nourishing solutions that are suitable for your skin type.
The Result of Wine Peel Procedures:
The positive effect of wine peel is achieved due to the combination of varied acids with the vinegar complex, and their all-round positive influence:
1. Epidermis is renewed;
2. Skin is toned and its plasticity is improved;
3. Oil secretion is reduced;
4. Skin is moisturized;
5. Pores are narrowed;
6. Wrinkles are smoothed;
7. Complexion and skin relief is evened out;
8. Pigment spots are lightened.
Complications that May Appear after Wine Peel
Hyperemia is often observed after wine peel and subsides in 2-3 hours.
If patients suffer from regular aggravations of herpetic infection, they should necessarily complete a course of anti-herpetic therapy. Otherwise, there is a high probability of herpetic rashes that can lead to formation of atrophic or hypertrophic scars.
Violation of aseptics and antiseptics rules during the procedure or in after-peel treatment period can cause contamination, mostly streptostaphyloderma.
Allergic reactions are also possible. They consist in itching, rising hyperemia and puffiness.
Rare complications comprise prolonged inflammation, post-inflammatory hyper pigmentation, demarcation line, persistent erythema.